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Sunday, August 15, 2021

Chūsonji (中尊寺) Temple, Hiraizumi, Japan


Copyright © 2017 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.

Chūsonji (中尊寺) Temple in Hiraizumi, Iwate Prefecture, Japan was established in 850 as a temple of the Tendai sect of Buddhism. The temple came to prominence when the northern branch of the Fujiwara clan moved their base to Hiraizumi. At its peak, the temple consisted of a large network of dozens of buildings. [1]

With the fall of the Fujiwara at the end of the 12th century, Chūsonji suffered likewise so that now only two buildings from that era remain intact. Luckily, among these is the most spectacular, the Konjikidō (金色堂). Similar to Kyoto's famous Kinkakuji (金閣寺, literally "Temple of the Golden Pavilion"), Konjikidō is a building completely covered in gold. It dates back to 1124 and stands inside another concrete building for protection. [1]

The opening photograph is the concrete building constructed to protect the Konjikidō and is the typical photograph that all visitors are allowed to make of the "Konjikidō". Once you enter the protective building, any video or photography is strictly prohibited of the spectacular Konjikidō itself.

Please continue reading the rest of the article to see a video of the golden Konjikidō and see more photographs of Chūsonji when I visited on 25 Nov 2017.

Copyright © 2017 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Tsukimizaka: Cryptomeria trees line the approach to Chūsonji

The Konjikidō (金色堂) is a small building completed in 1124, which still conveys an image of what Chūsonji looked like in its prime. The building is covered with gold leaf on both the interior and exterior. Inside, the decorations use mother-of-pearl inlays, woodwork, metalwork, lacquer work and paintings, bringing together many aspects of late Heian period (794 to 1185) arts and crafts It is one of two buildings that survive from the original Chūsonji temple complex, the other being a sutra repository. The building also serves as a mausoleum containing the mummified remains of the leaders of the Northern Fujiwara clan. [2]

Copyright © 2017 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Honbo Front Gate (本房正門) to the Main Hall

The Konjikidō building measures 5.5 meters (18 feet) on each side and is 8 meters (26 feet) tall. The interior of the building contains three altars, one for each of the first three Fujiwara lords. Each altar had a seated Amida Nyōrai surrounded by standing Kannon Bosatsu and Seishi Bosatsu, six Jizō Bosatsu and two Niten statues. One Niten figure is now missing. [2]

Copyright © 2017 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Former wooden Shelter Hall of Konjikidō

The concrete building protecting Konjikidō was built in 1963 and replaced a wooden Shelter Hall that was thought to be first constructed in 1288. However, from the plaque on the wooden Shelter Hall, Konjikidō was covered with a simple roof for 50 years after it was first constructed in 1124. The wooden Shelter Hall is the result of an evolution of construction that started in 1288 and resulted in the present wooden structure in the middle 16th Century. The empty wooden former Shelter Hall is still standing on the grounds of the temple and can be entered.

Copyright © 2017 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Shakado (釈迦堂)

The grounds of the temple are large, with many historic buildings besides the Konjikidō. However the main reason for visiting Chūsonji is to see the Konjikidō. Since photographs and videos are not allowed, the best way to convey the splendor and beauty of the golden temple is to view a video made by NHK, Japan's Public Broadcaster (below). Made in 2011, Begin Japanology, now called Japanology Plus, is a series that explores Japanese Culture and is still hosted by Peter Barakan, a longtime resident of Japan from England. If you are pressed for time, viewing the first 15 minutes of the video will allow you to see the inside of the Konjikidō together with an explanation of the artisan crafts needed to create and restore it.

In the video during his visit, which was during the afternoon, you will notice the crowds of people that come to view the Konjikidō. The temple is a domestic tourist destination as well as for overseas tourists. I was fortunate for my visit to be alone in the Konjikidō when I visited since I arrived early in the morning after a 30 minute, 2.2 km/1.3 mile, walk from Hiraizumi Station. I arrived at Hiraizumi Station before the bus service, which has limited hours and runs mainly on weekends, to the temple started, so the only options to get to the temple are to take a taxi or walk

NHK Begin Japanology video

The town of Hiraizumi is in the northern prefecture of Iwate and can be reached from Tokyo by Shinkansen and local train in three hours, which makes a day trip visiting the temple possible. I stayed in Sendai, which is only an hour away by Shinkansen and local train, so I was able to visit the temple in the morning and travel to another destination in the afternoon. Regardless of where your trip originates, I highly recommend visiting as early as possible in the morning to avoid the large number of daily visitors. I was fortunate enough to visit early in the morning before the crowds and was able to view the Konjikidō all by myself (except for the monks making sure that no photos or videos were being taken). That experience alone was worth the memorable early morning trip to see Konjikidō in total silence and without being rushed.

Chūsonji (中尊寺) Temple Information and Access

Name:

  • Chūsonji Temple
  • 中尊寺

Address:

  • Koromonoseki-202 Hiraizumi, Nishiiwai District, Iwate 029-4102, Japan
  • 〒029-4102 岩手県西磐井郡平泉町平泉衣関202

Access:

  • Japan Rail Pass (7-, 14-, 21-day):
    • Valid for travel throughout Japan on Japan Rail (with some exceptions).
    • Purchase outside of Japan. Must show passport and have a short-term (90 day) visitor's stamp to redeem at selected airports and rail stations. (This is changing)
    • Once activated, must be used on consecutive days (i.e. cannot skip days).

  • Hiraizumi Station is easily reached by Shinkansen and local train from Tokyo or Sendai, with a transfer at Ichinoseki Station.
    • From Tokyo:

        • The first Yambiko Shinkansen from Tokyo Station leaves a little after 06:00, with a transfer to a local train at Ichinoseki Station, and takes approximately 180 minutes.
        • Transfer at Ichinoseki Station to take the JR Tohoku Line to Hiraizumi Station (approximately 7 minutes).

          • All seats unreserved.

        • The cost of the trip is fully covered by the Japan Rail (JR) Pass, otherwise the total cost for the Shinkansen and train trip from Tokyo is:

          • Unreserved: ¥12530

          • Reserved: ¥13260

          • Green Seat: ¥16720

      • From Sendai:

        • Take the Yambiko Shinkansen from Sendai Station and transfer to a local train at Ichinoseki Station, which takes approximately 60 minutes.

        • Transfer at Ichinoseki Station to take the JR Tohoku Line to Hiraizumi Station (approximately 7 minutes).

          • All seats unreserved.

        • The cost of the trip is fully covered by the Japan Rail (JR) Pass, otherwise the total cost for the Shinkansen and train trip from Sendai is:

          • Unreserved: ¥3850

          • Reserved: ¥4580

          • Green Seat: ¥4900

    • At Hiraizumi Station, there are three options to get to Chūsonji Temple:
      • Walk 30 minutes, 2.2 km/1.3 mile.
      • Taxi.
      • Hiraizumi Town Tour Bus "Runrun".
        • Operates for limited hours only on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays from April to November.
        • See the Japanese website for details: 

    • Information and prices are accurate as of the published date of this article and are subject to change.

    Hours and Admission:

    • 1 Mar to 3 Nov:
      • 08:30-17:00
    • 4 Nov to end of Feb:
      • 08:30-16:30
    • No closing dates.

    • No admission fee for entrance to the Chūsonji Temple grounds.

    • Admission fee for the Sankozo, Konjikidō, Keizo, and the former Kaido:
      • ¥800.

      • Electronic tickets can be purchased ahead of time through a link on the Chūsonji Temple website:
    • Information and prices are accurate as of the published date of this article and are subject to change.

    Websites:

    • Plan your rail trip using Hyperdia:
    • Japan Rail Pass (7-, 14-, 21-day):
    • The Hiraizumi Town Tour Bus "Runrun" Japanese website:

    Map:


    References

    [1] Japan Guide. "Chusonji Temple". Last modified: 26 Mar 2021. https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5001.html.

    [2] Wikipedia. "Chūson-ji". Last modified: 22 May 2021. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ch%C5%ABson-ji.

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