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Monday, December 27, 2021

Meiji Shrine (明治神宮, Meiji Jingū), Tokyo, Japan

Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.

This will be my last article for 2021. Thanks to all who have taken the time to read the travel articles and I appreciate the comments that I have received. This article on the Meiji Shrine is longer than most  of the articles I have written since I have regularly visited and photographed the shrine since I first traveled to Tokyo over 17 years ago. I hope that the pandemic abates so that international travel becomes possible and practical again, but until then I will keep digging into my travel photographs for new articles in 2022. I wish you the best for the holiday season and will see you next year. Stay healthy and happy!

The Meiji Shrine (明治神宮, Meiji Jingū) is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his consort, Empress Shoken. Emperor Meiji presided over the Meiji era, and instigated the Meiji Restoration, a series of rapid changes that witnessed Japan's transformation from an isolationist, feudal state to an industrialized world power [4]. The Japanese government officially started the construction of Meiji Jingū to commemorate their deified spirits after he (1912) and his wife (1914) passed away. The construction took about five years to complete the entire shrine before it was formally dedicated in 1920. Most of the shrine complex was destroyed during the air raids of the Second World War, but thanks to a number of donations from around Japan, the current buildings were restored in 1958 [5].

Located just beside the busy Japan Rail (JR) Harajuku Station, Meiji Shrine and the adjacent Yoyogi Park make up a large forested area within the densely built-up city of Tokyo, Japan. Meiji Jingū is one of Japan's most popular shrines. In the first days of the New Year, the shrine regularly welcomes more than three million visitors for the year's first prayers (初詣, hatsumōde), more than any other shrine or temple in the country. During the rest of the year, traditional Shinto weddings can often be seen taking place there [2], as well as other rituals, processions, and festivals.

I first traveled to Japan on business in 2004 and visited the Meiji Shrine for the first time in the morning on my last day in Tokyo. Since it was a short train ride from the hotel, the group I was traveling with made a brief visit to the shrine before flying back in the afternoon to the USAOn my many subsequent trips to Tokyo, while I have visited the shrine at other times, I have always maintained the ritual of visiting in the morning on my last day in Tokyo before flying home to this day. So the photographs in the article are from a span of visits to the shrine over 15 years. My last visit was 2019, just before Japan closed to tourists because of COVID-19.

Please continue reading the rest of the article to learn more about the Meiji Shrine and see the photographs from my many visits over the years.


NHK Documentary: Meiji Jingu Forest: A 100-year Botanic Experiment

NHK Video Documentary

Meiji Shrine is located in a man-made forest that covers an area of 70 hectares (170 acres). This area is covered by an evergreen forest that consists of 120,000 trees of 365 different species, which were donated by people from all parts of Japan when the shrine was established [3] in 1920. Before reading the article about the Meiji Shrine, please view the above NHK (NHK is Japan's Public Broadcasting network) video documentary about the forest surrounding the shrine. The video is 47:04 minutes in length, but viewing the first 10:30 minutes will give a good introduction to this man-made forest in one of the most densely populated cities in the world. The forest itself is off-limits to visitors, who must travel to and from the shrine on the designated pathways. The forest is not managed in any way, allowing it to thrive without interference.

Copyright © 2018 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Former Harajuku Wooden Station Building (Oct 2018)

Introduction

The article is written and arranged as one would typically walk to the Meiji Shrine after taking the JR train to Harajuku Station. Walking directly to the shrine from the station would take approximately 10 minutes using the southern approach to the main shrine. However it rarely takes 10 minutes to walk to the shrine since there are sights and photographic opportunities along the way that will definitely cause detours before reaching the main shrine buildings.

JR Harajuku Station

The most convenient gateways to the Meiji Shrine is via Harajuku Station using the Japan Rail (JR) Yamanote Line or Meiji-jingu-mae Station on the Chiyoda and Fukutoshin Subway Lines, which is next to Harajuku Station. The former Harajuku Station, pictured above, was the last and oldest wooden rail station building in Tokyo. The wooden structure was built in 1924 [1] and survived the bombings of World War II. The wooden station was still in use until the opening of the new adjacent modern station in Mar 2020 to precede the original scheduled opening date for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. The new modern steel and glass station meets the current building fire codes and alleviates crowding by expanding the number of train platforms to two from one. The old wooden building is destined to be demolished and rebuilt in the same style with modern materials since it cannot be refurbished to meet current building codes, which has caused much controversy since the charming old wooden station is much beloved by its users [1]. The rebuilt building will then be repurposed for uses other than that of a train station.

I was last in Tokyo in 2019, so I have not had the chance to use the new modern two-story glass enclosed station, but I know that I will not miss the crowded interior passages of the old wooden building when trying to get to and from the old single train platform. One new convenient feature of the new modern Harajuku Station building for those visiting Meiji Jingū is that there is now a direct exit (use the West Exit) to the entrance of the shrine grounds.

Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Meiji Jingū Ichino Torii (一の鳥居, first torii), south approach from JR Harajuku Station (Jul 2005)

Meiji Jingū Ichino Torii (一の鳥居, first torii)

The southern approach from Harajuku Station to the Meiji Jingū precincts is marked by the Meiji Jingū Ichino Torii (一の鳥居, first torii)A torii, which is a gate that consists of two pillars topped with a double lintel and a tie beam, marks the entrance to a shrine, separating the sacred world from the secular [8]. The bustle and noise from the streets of Tokyo fall away as you enter the Meiji Jingū forest passing under the Ichino Torii. The correct way to enter and exit the torii gate is to bow once before passing under it, although this is not always practiced. Also it is customary to not walk through the gate directly under the center, but to the left or right, since the center is reserved for the gods.

This torii is built in the Myojin style, which is differentiated by a curved upper lintel and a long tie beam. This is the first of three torii along the southern approach to the main shrine. There are three sixteen-petal chrysanthemum-shaped crests decorating the upper lintel. The chrysanthemum crest is the crest of the Imperial Family and indicates the connection between the Imperial Family and Meiji Jingū. The crest has been incorporated throughout the shrine grounds, for example in the design of the lanterns [8].

The above photograph taken in 2005 shows the approach when it was entirely gravel. The approach has now been made more disabled friendly by installing a continual ribbon of paved stones on both the left and right sides of the approach to the shrine itself.

Copyright © 2017 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Meiji Jingū Shinkyo (Sacred Bridge) (明治神宮 神橋) (Dec 2017)

Meiji Jingū Shinkyo (Sacred Bridge) (明治神宮 神橋)

After passing under the Meiji Jingū Ichino Torii, the first sight that comes into view is the Meiji Jingū Shinkyo (Sacred Bridge) (明治神宮 神橋). In fact, the bridge is so inconspicuous, crossing over it can easily be missed walking to the shrine. The bridge spans the stream that eventually forms the Shibuya River. The stream is fed by the South Pond (南池) in the Meiji Jingū Gyoen (明治神宮 御苑, Meiji Shrine Garden). More about Meiji Jingū Gyoen later.

Meiji Jingū Museum (明治神宮ミュージアム)

The new Meiji Jingū Museum (明治神宮ミュージアム) was opened in 2019. The museum was built in order to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the establishment of the shrine in 2020. The modern museum showcases a large collection which mainly consists of valuable articles and items used by Emperor Meiji and his wife. On the first floor, visitors can learn about the history of the shrine as well as the details of annual events through informative displays such as video exhibits [5].

The museum was designed by the noted Japanese architect, Kuma Kengo (隈研吾; following Japanese custom, family (last) name is listed first), and he is noted for his creative and extensive use of natural wood in his designs. One of his most recent notable designs is the nearby Japan National Stadium (国立競技場) in Tokyo, where the opening and closing ceremonies were held for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. I have also visited and written articles about two other places that he designed:

The admission cost to the museum is ¥1000, is open from 10:00-16:30 (last admission 16:00), and is closed on Thursdays. I have not been inside the new museum because it was closed the day I visited in 2019 (the museum had just opened to visitors).

Copyright © 2007 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Former Imperial Platform and unused attended gate from Harajuku Station (No longer exists) (May 2007)

A Relic From The Past That No Longer Exists

The above photograph is that of an unused attended gate from Harajuku Station, which formerly might have been noticed after walking for a few minutes along the southern approach after crossing the Meiji Jingū Shinkyo (Sacred Bridge)Unfortunately, the unused attended gate no longer exists after the new Meiji Jingū Museum was built. The museum occupies the space where the former unattended gate existed.

There actually was another unused railway platform at Harajuku Station which was reserved for the train used by the Imperial family and barring a visit by them, the platform was used long ago to provide a direct gate to the Meiji Shrine for regular railway users during peak visiting periods. When the Meiji Shrine was built in 1920, the Imperial family traveled in Japan using a dedicated ornately furnished Imperial train, so having a dedicated platform to access the shrine was a necessary privilege. While Japan remains a train fanatics paradise, the dedicated Imperial train was retired long ago, with the Imperial family preferring more modern auto and airplanes for their transportation. So having an unused dedicated Imperial platform at Harajuku Station was tremendous waste of train station space. 

I have never seen the extra platform or attended gate in use during my trips to Tokyo for regular train passengers. The unused gate was a relic from Tokyo's railway past before the universal installation of automated ticket gates at all stations, and to my knowledge was the last existing attended railway gate in Tokyo. A station attendant used to stand in the "bucket" at the ticket wicket where passengers would hand a paper ticket printed with their station of origin. The attendant would then have to quickly determine if the the correct fare was paid and if not, mentally calculate the difference that the passenger had to pay, and then collect the difference in fare on the spot. All this had to be done quickly, otherwise the queue would back up with impatient passengers trying to exit the station. So the last attended gate from Tokyo's railway past has been replaced with a new museum building.

Copyright © 2019 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Meiji Jingū Public Toilet Instructions (Oct 2019)

Restaurants, Souvenir Shop, and Public Toilets

Continuing down the approach to the Main Shrine buildings from the Meiji Jingū Museum, the next complex that you will encounter contains restaurants, a souvenir shop, and public toilets. The contents of the Meiji Jingū museum used to be exhibited in one of the buildings in the complex. Once the Meiji Jingū Museum was built, the entire complex was remodeled to contain more restaurants. Many visitors to the shrine, stop here to eat and shop on their return trip to Harajuku Station. This area is also where visitors who drive automobiles to the shrine or travel in tour buses park. Public restrooms are also located here and throughout the shrine grounds.

The above photograph, taken in Oct 2019, is from the newly remodeled public restrooms, where the latest in electronic toilets were installed. Multi-lingual instructions are posted in each stall to make sure that the toilet is used properly. I later visited the museum of the toilet's manufacturer, and you can read about the visit here:

Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Meiji Jingū Consecrated Sake Barrels (明治神宮 奉献酒樽) (Apr 2005)

Consecrated Sake and Wine Barrels

After the restaurants, the next sight that visitors stop for photographs are the more than 200 traditional sake barrels that were collected and donated to the shrine by famous sake breweries across the country as a sacred offering to the Emperor Meiji. These straw-covered sake barrels are offered to Meiji Jingū annually by the members of the Meiji Jingū Nationwide Sake Brewers Association. The barrels, which are decorative and empty, are offered to the kami deities along with the sake in bottles [8].

Wine barrels imported from France are also displayed, hinting at the emperor’s love for wine and his achievement to have spread the Western culture across Japan during the Meiji period [5]. In memory of Emperor Meiji and his love of French wine, a number of famous wineries in the Bourgogne region of France each donated a barrel of wine to Meiji Jingū in 2006. Wine donated from Burgundy is now offered to the shrine every year. These barrels are a symbol of the strong intercultural ties enjoyed by France and Japan [8].

Copyright © 2008 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Manually sweeping the road in front of the consecrated French wine barrels (Apr 2008)

Keeping the Shrine Precincts Clean

Since the shrine precincts are sacred, there is a noticeable silence as you walk to the shrine. As you walk the path to the shrine, you will notice that gravel approach is amazingly clean and devoid of any leaf litter or debris. The approach is after all a path through a forest and the trees are especially prolific at dropping leaves in the Fall. The reason for the lack of leaf litter is because of the dedicated continual maintenance using manual - no gas or motorized - tools, which makes for an amazing amount of manual labor. All the leaf litter is not discarded, but spread in the forest to decompose as fertilizer (more manual labor). If you visit early in the morning, you will see that all sweeping is done with long bamboo brooms. The photograph above shows one of the sweepers in action near the consecrated wine barrels.

  • Tip: Be advised that the people sweeping are extremely adverse to having photographs of them working, so maintain your distance, use a longer lens, and take your photographs discreetly from afar.

Copyright © 2006 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Meiji Jingū Nino Torii (二の鳥居, second torii) (Apr 2006)

Meiji Jingū Nino Torii (二の鳥居, second torii)

Meiji Jingū Nino Torii (二の鳥居, second torii) is the world's largest wooden torii, with a height of 12 meters (a little more than 39 feet) and a width of 17.1 meters (approximately 56 feet). The individual pillars alone are 1.2 meters (3.9 feet) wide, and weighs an astounding 13 tons!

However, the gate that stands there today is not the original. In 1966, the first torii was destroyed by a lighting strike. Yasushi Kawashima, a timber merchant from Tokyo, declared that in thanks to the Gods who watched over him and his business, he would put everything he had into rebuilding it. Kawashima travelled many times to Taiwan. Once, when visiting Dan Mountain, 3,300 meters (over 10,000 feet) above sea level, he discovered a gigantic, 1,500 year-old Japanese Cypress tree - the perfect material for a torii. Where there was nothing but a steep precipice, he built a road, and with the help of the local people, took down the enormous tree. The current torii that welcomes visitors into Meiji Jingū is the result of years of his effort, and was finally completed in 1975 [6].

Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Kakuuntei (隔雲亭), Meiji Jingū Goyen (明治神宮御苑) Inner Garden (Jul 2005)

Meiji Jingū Goyen (明治神宮御苑)

Meiji Jingū Goyen (明治神宮御苑) is an 83,000 square meter (20.5 acre) garden oasis in the middle of Meiji Jingu that can easily be missed and is usually never crowded. The entrance is down a signed path in the forest to the left just after passing under the Meiji Jingū Nino Torii. I do not visit the garden every time I visit Meiji Jingū, but for first timers or if the Iris Garden is in bloom (more about this later), the gardens should be on your list of places to visit. Many people visit the main shrine buildings first before entering the gardens on their return trip to Harajuku Station. There is an admission charge of ¥500 per person and note that the garden closes between 16:00-17:00 depending upon the time of year.

The garden predates the the establishment of Meiji Jingu. The garden was built in the early Edo Period (1603-1867) by Lord Kato of Kumamoto. Kato is credited with finally finishing the building of Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan's three great castles, in 1610. Read about my Nov 2017 visit to Kumamoto Castle after the 2016 earthquake at:

One of the first sights after entering the garden is the Kakuuntei (隔雲亭) Tea House, which was built in 1883 by Emperor Meiji for the Empress Shoken as a rest house and so she could gaze over the South Pond. The original structure was destroyed in the air raids of the Second World War and was rebuilt in 1958. Kakuuntei is closed to the public. One of the reasons Meiji Jingu was built around the garden was because of the Imperial couples use of the garden.

Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.

Maintaining the Iris Field (菖蒲田), Meiji Jingū Goyen (明治神宮御苑) Inner Garden (Jul 2005)

The highlight of the garden is the Iris Garden (also known as the Iris Field), which is in full bloom from late May through late June. There are 1,500 iris plants of 150 species in the garden. The Iris Garden was commissioned by Emperor Meiji for Empress Shoken. Unfortunately my trip to the garden in July 2005 was right after the iris field bloomed, as shown in the photograph above. The garden is also surrounded by magnificent Japanese maples and other plants and trees. There is also a separate azalea garden as well. Best seen in late April, some of the azalea trees are over 100 years old [7].

Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Kiyomasa's Well (清正井, Kiyomasa Ido), Meiji Jingū Goyen (明治神宮御苑) Inner Garden (Jul 2005)

Another garden highlight is Kiyomasa's Well (清正井, Kiyomasa Ido), touted as one of the most famous wells of the Edo Period. Year round the water remains at 15 degrees Celsius (59 degrees Fahrenheit) and has been continually producing 60 liters (15.8 gallons) per minute. The well water irrigates the Iris Garden and is the source of water for the South Pond [7], which feeds the stream that flows under the Meiji Jingū Shinkyo (Sacred Bridge), which everyone walks over when using the southern approach to the shrine, that eventually becomes the Shibuya River.

Kiyomasa’s Well is recognized as a symbolic spiritual spot in Meiji Jingu Shrine and said to bring you good luck. The unique name, Kiyomasa, was named after Kato Kiyomasa (加藤清正), a famous Samurai warrior back in the 16th through 17th century. The private residence of Kato Kiyomasa was located at the spot of the well [5].

Copyright © 2006 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Meiji Jingu Chōzuya (明治神宮 手水舎) (Dec 2006)

Meiji Jingu Chōzuya (明治神宮 手水舎)

After exiting the Meiji Jingu Garden, the gravel path makes a turn to the right before approaching the next place. Chōzuya or temizuya (手水舎) is a Shinto water ablution pavilion for a ceremonial purification rite known as temizu or chōzu (手水, literally hand-water). The temizuya is usually an open area where clear water fills one large basin called a chōzubachi (手水鉢, literally hand water basin). Originally, this purification was done at a spring, stream, or seashore, and this is still considered the ideal. At shrines, these chōzubachi, are used by worshippers for washing their left hand, right hand, mouth, and finally the handle of the water ladle (柄杓, hishaku) to purify themselves before approaching the main Shinto shrine [9]. This symbolic purification is a normal practice before entering a shrine, but not everyone performs the ritual. 

Copyright © 2008 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Meiji Jingū Sanno Torii (三の鳥居, third torii) with the Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon (明治神宮 南神門, Meiji Shrine South Gate) in the background (Apr 2008)


Copyright © 2018 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
New Meiji Jingū Sanno Torii (三の鳥居, third torii) with the Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon (明治神宮 南神門, Meiji Shrine South Gate) in the background (Dec 2017)

Meiji Jingū Sanno Torii (三の鳥居, third torii)

Meiji Jingū Sanno Torii (三の鳥居, third torii) is the third, final, and most sacred torii before entering the main shrine buildings. The above two photographs of the Meiji Jingū Sanno Torii, taken nine years apart, contrast the appearance between the old and new wood after the torii was rebuilt sometime before Dec 2017. The difference in the color of the wood shows how torii age over time.

Copyright © 2007 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon (明治神宮 南神門, Meiji Shrine South Gate) (May 2007), looking from the main shrine buildings

Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon (明治神宮 南神門, Meiji Shrine South Gate)

Behind the Meiji Jingū Sanno Torii in the two previous photographs, and in the above photograph is the Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon (明治神宮 南神門), or South Gate. Walking through the Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon means that the main shrine grounds have been entered. This gate is the most important of the three gates that open onto the main shrine complex, and is the main entrance. The other two gates are the Meiji Jingu Higashijinmon (明治神宮 東神門, Meiji Shrine East Gate) and the Meiji Jingu Nishijinmon (明治神宮 西神門, Meiji Shrine West Gate).

The importance of the Minamijinmon entrance is reflected in the gate being a two-story building, whereas the other two gates are single story. The gate was built in 1920 when Meiji Jingū was dedicated, and is one of the few structures to have survived the air raids of World War II. The gate is made from Japanese hinoki cypress, roofed with copper. When passing through the gate, be sure to step over the wooden beam, not on it. It is considered respectful to bow your head while passing through [8], which not everyone practices.

Copyright © 2018 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Priest in the building between the Meiji Jingū Sanno Torii (三の鳥居, third torii) and Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon (明治神宮 南神門, Meiji Shrine South Gate) (Nov 2018)

There is a building on the left between the Meiji Jingū Sanno Torii and the Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon, where there usually is, but not always, a Shinto priest sitting in the building overlooking the approach to the main shrine. I am not sure of the priest's function since I have never seen anyone approach to talk to him or have seen him move from the sitting position. In general, the best approach to taking photographs of Shinto priests at shrines is to be discreet, and not disrupt any functions or rituals.

Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Couple Camphor Trees (夫婦楠, Meoto Kusu), Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿)) in the background (Jul 2005)

Couple Camphor Trees (夫婦楠, Meoto Kusu)

The pair of camphor trees, in the above photograph, are the first things that you will see to the left of the main shrine building after entering through the Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon (明治神宮 南神門). The trees are known as Meoto Kusu (夫婦楠), or Husband and Wife Camphor Trees. They are joined by a rope called a shimenawa (標縄), which signifies their sacred connection. The shimenawa is used to indicate sacredness, and also wards off evil spirits. These two trees were planted as saplings when Meiji Jingū was established in 1920, and have been growing side by side ever since. Hence they are seen as a symbol of a happy, solid marriage like that of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, and of a healthy family. The trees are a popular spot for people searching for a partner, and for those looking for success in marriage [8].

Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Priest maintaining the votive tablet rack (Apr 2005)


Copyright © 2018 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Votive tablet rack and Meiji Jingū Higashijinmon (明治神宮 東神門, Meiji Shrine East Gate) roof detail (Oct 2018)

Votive Tablet Rack

Ema (絵馬, lit. picture-horse), or votive tablets, are wooden plaques with a picture specific to the shrine on one side, and a blank space for writing a message of gratitude or prayer on the other. At most shrines, ema can usually be purchased for ¥100, but cost ¥500 (¥1000 for the special New Year's version) at Meiji Jingū.

The word ema literally means picture of a horse, and dates back to ancient times when devotees would donate horses to shrines. Over time pictures of horses came to replace actual horses, and further developed into the ema of today. Messages written on ema can be anything, can be written in any language, and by anyone regardless of faith. Once written, the ema are hung on the votive tablet rack, which surrounds a camphor tree near the Meiji Jingu Higashijinmon (明治神宮 東神門, Meiji Shrine East Gate). The tablets are eventually burned in a ritual fire [8].

Copyright © 2017 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Meiji Jingū Nishijinmon (明治神宮 西神門) new copper roof cladding contrasts with the old oxidized roof (Dec 2017)


Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Priest on Main Shrine cleaning duty (Apr 2005)


Copyright © 2008 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Shrine maidens walking in the rain past the Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿)) (Apr 2008)


Copyright © 2018 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Shrine maidens selling charms and amulets at the Juyosho (授与所, Amulet Office) (Oct 2018)

Juyosho (授与所, Amulet Office)

Amulets, known as omamori (御守), and protective talismans, known as ofuda (お札), can be purchased at the Juyosho (授与所, Amulet Office). There are omamori for many worldly worries, such as traffic safety, health, and success in education. Meiji Jingu also offers the sowa mamori, a special omamori for luck in love, infused with the aroma of camphor trees and inspired by the Meoto Kusu, Husband and Wife Camphor Trees. Omamori are usually attached to or put into a bag, purse or pocket, and kept until they have fulfilled their purpose [8]. Taking photographs of the amulets and talismans is prohibited.

Copyright © 2019 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿)) (Oct 2019) 


Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿)) wooden doors (Apr 2005)


Copyright © 2006 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Shrine Maiden walking past the Main Shine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿)) (Apr 2006)


Copyright © 2006 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Priests changing the offerings in the inner Main Shrine Naihaiden (Inner Hall) (明治神宮 内拝殿)) (Apr 2006) 


Copyright © 2017 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Paying respects at the Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿)) (Dec 2017)

Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿) and Naihaiden (Inner Hall) (明治神宮 内拝殿)

The Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿) and Naihaiden (Inner Hall) (明治神宮 内拝殿) are the buildings directly visible to the north right after entering the Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon. The correct etiquette for a shrine visit (参拝, sanpai) calls for the worshiper to approach the main shrine Gehaiden, where there are free standing offering boxes. At Meiji Jingū, the offering boxes form a contiguous barrier along the Gehaiden (Outer Hall) to prevent entry into the Naihaiden (Inner Hall). The worshipper tosses a coin (or coins; a ¥100 coin is an acceptable amount) into the offering box, bows twice, claps twice, and bows one more time. Not everyone practices sanpai, and it is perfectly acceptable to not.

You will notice that there are uniformed guards at the Main Shrine Gehaiden. The guards are there to enforce the rules and to keep order at the shrine. There is a photograph of priests changing the offerings in the in the Main Shrine Naihaiden (Inner Hall) above that was taken Apr 2006. That photograph would not be possible today since photography of the Inner Hall is now prohibited and strictly enforced. In fact taking photographs at the Outer Hall is also prohibited. I do not know when this rule changed, but you are now even discouraged from lingering for long after making your offering at the Gehaiden. I believe the number of people at the Gehaiden was causing crowding problems when there were many visitors.

Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.


Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.


Copyright © 2005 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Tsukinamisai Ritual for world peace and everybody's prosperity (9:00AM, 1st & 15th each month), Priest and Shrine Maiden procession at the Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿)) (Apr 2005)

Weddings, Rituals, Processions, Festivals, and Activities

No matter when you visit Meiji Jingū, there will be other activities in progress at Tokyo's most popular shrine. The activities range from weddings, festivals, rituals, and processions, among others. Festivals, rituals, and processions occur year round and the opportunity to view and participate depends upon the time of the year you visit. A list of daily and annual rites and events in English can be found here:

The photographs above are just a small sampling of the activities that I have witnessed and photographed in my many visits to Meiji Jingū. The above photographs are of the Tsukinamisai Ritual for world peace and everybody's prosperity, which occurs at 9:00AM, the 1st and 15th of every month. This is a regular ritual procession where you can see all the shrine priests and shrine maidens walking through the Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon, through the Main Shrine courtyard, and to the Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall), where they all bow in turn to pay respects to the deified Emperor and Empress in the Main Shrine Naihaiden (Inner Hall).

Copyright © 2006 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Wedding pictures at the Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿)) (Apr 2006)


Copyright © 2006 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Wedding procession at the Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿)) (Apr 2006)

Weddings

The odds are that no matter what day or time of year you visit Meiji Jingū, there will be a wedding. Weddings at Meiji Jingū start with wedding photographs. You can witness the time and effort spent taking bridal photographs (the groom photographs are not so elaborate). While the photograph above of bridal photography was taken in the Main Shrine, recently the bridal photographs have moved from the Main Shrine and are now taken just outside of the Meiji Jingu Minamijinmon. As you can surmise, the bridal photography session is also a tourist opportunity to take pictures.

If you are really lucky, you will get to witness a wedding procession walking through the Main Shrine to the Naihaiden (Inner Shrine). I have only seen the actual wedding procession once (photograph above), with the red umbrella over the bride and groom, trailed by their relatives, after they entered the Meiji Jingu Minamijinmon, and walked through the Main Shrine courtyard to the Naihaiden (Inner Shrine) led by a Shinto priest. Consider yourself lucky if you witness a wedding procession.

Copyright © 2018 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Shichi-Go-San (七五三) pictures at the Main Shrine Gehaiden (Outer Hall) (明治神宮 外拝殿)) (Nov 2018)

Shichi-Go-San (七五三)

Shichi-Go-San (七五三, literally Seven-Five-Three) is a traditional rite of passage and festival day in Japan for three- and seven-year-old girls, five-year-old and sometimes three-year-old boys, held annually on November 15 to celebrate the growth and well-being of young children. As it is not a national holiday, it is generally observed on the nearest weekend [10]. However, on weekends throughout the month of November, you can see these appropriately aged boys and girls, dressed in their best kimonos, being brought to Shinto shrines throughout Japan to be blessed. Meiji Jingū is no exception, with a continual stream of finely dressed children and their (finely dressed) parents coming to the shrine. Visiting the shrine during these weekends is one of my favorite times of year to be in Japan since it is a great time to take photographs of children and parents in traditional dress.

Copyright © 2006 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Priest in the building between the Meiji Jingū Sanno Torii (三の鳥居, third torii) and Meiji Jingū Minamijinmon (明治神宮 南神門, Meiji Shrine South Gate) (Oct 2006)

Summary

Meiji Jingū is located in a man-made forested oasis in the middle of one of the most densely packed cities in Japan. Not only is the shrine the one of the most popular Shinto shrines in Tokyo for both locals and tourists, it is arguably the most important in Tokyo and should be on everyone's list of places to visit. The shrine is easily reached, being located next to JR Harajuku Station. While it will only take about 10 minutes to walk directly from Harajuku Station to the main shrine buildings, first time visitors should plan to spend a few hours seeing the sights located within the shrine grounds - museum, garden, and the shrine itself - and if you are lucky, witness a wedding, procession, ritual, or festival.

  • Tip: The shrine is least crowded early in the morning and this is the best time to visit. The shrine is opened from sunrise to sunset. As the day goes on, large tour buses arrive, and the shrine becomes even more crowded. Festivals and other activities also means more people visiting the shrine.

Copyright © 2008 Douglas R. Wong. All Rights Reserved.
Cherry blossoms over the Main Shrine (Apr 2008)

Meiji Shrine (明治神宮, Meiji Jingū) Information and Access

Name:

  • Meiji Shrine
  • 明治神宮 (Meiji Jingū)

Address:

  • 1-1 Yoyogikamizonocho, Shibuya City, Tokyo 151-8557, Japan
  • 〒151-8557 東京都渋谷区代々木神園町1−1

Phone:

  • +81 3-3379-5511

Access:

  • Japan Rail Pass (7-, 14-, 21-day):
    • Valid for travel throughout Japan on Japan Rail (with some exceptions).
    • Purchase outside of Japan. Must show passport and have a short-term (90 day) visitor's stamp to redeem at selected airports and rail stations. (This is changing)
    • Once activated, must be used on consecutive days (i.e. cannot skip days).

  • The most convenient gateways to the Meiji Shrine
    • Harajuku Station West Exit using the Japan Rail (JR) Yamanote Line.

      • JR Pass is valid for use.

      • Use an Electronic IC Cash Card (e.g. JR Suica, Passmo) to pay fare.

    • Meiji-jingu-mae Station on the Chiyoda and Fukutoshin Subway Lines, which is next to Harajuku Station.

      • JR Pass is not valid for use on Tokyo's subway lines.

      • Use an Electronic IC Cash Card (e.g. JR Suica, Passmo) to pay fare.

    • Information and prices are accurate as of the published date of this article and are subject to change.

    Hours and Admission:

    • Shrine Grounds

      • Open sunrise to sunset everyday

      • No admission fee
    • Meiji Jingū Museum

      • Open from 10:00 - 16:30

      • Last admission 30 minutes before closing

      • Open everyday, closed Thursdays

      • ¥1000 admission fee

    • Meiji Jingū Garden

      • Open from 9:00 - 16:30 (Mar-May)

      • Open from 8:00 - 17:00 (18:00 Sat & Sun) (Jun)

      • Open from 9:00 - 16:30 (Jul-Oct)

      • Open from 9:00 - 16:00 (Nov-Feb)

      • Last admission 30 minutes before closing

      • ¥500 admission fee

    • Information and prices are accurate as of the published date of this article and are subject to change.

    Websites:

    • Plan your rail trip using Hyperdia:
    • Japan Rail Pass (7-, 14-, 21-day):

    Map:


    References

    [1] Unseen Japan. "New Harajuku Station Leaves People Pining for Its Predecessor". Last accessed: 26 Nov 2021. https://unseenjapan.com/new-harajuku-station-leaves-people-pining-for-its-predecessor/.

    [2] Japan Guide. "Meiji Shrine". Last accessed: 26 Nov 2021. https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3002.html.

    [3] Wikipedia. "Meiji Shrine". Last accessed: 26 Nov 2021. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meiji_Shrine.

    [4] Wikipedia. "Emperor Meiji". Last accessed: 26 Nov 2021. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emperor_Meiji.

    [5] Japan Wonder Travel Blog. "Complete Guide To The Meiji Jingu Shrine". Last accessed: 13 Dec 2021. https://blog.japanwondertravel.com/visit-meiji-jingu-shrine-23658.

    [6] Matcha. "Meiji Jingu: Harajuku's Stunning Shrine". Last accessed: 13 Dec 2021. https://matcha-jp.com/en/1215.

    [7] Japan Visitor. "Meiji Jingu Inner Garden". Last accessed: 19 Dec 2021. https://www.japanvisitor.com/japan-parks-gardens/meijinaien.

    [8] Meiji Jingu Precinct Map (English). "Precinct Map". Last accessed 23 Dec 2021. https://www.meijijingu.or.jp/en/map/.

    [9] Wikipedia. "Chōzuya". Last modified: 17 Dec 2021. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ch%C5%8Dzuya.

    [10] Wikipedia. "Shichi-Go-San". Last modified: 18 Nov 2021. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shichi-Go-San.

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