If you go to Japan, you will inevitably visit temples and shrines. Temples are associated with Buddhism and shrines, called jinja (神社, じんじゃ) in Japanese, with the native Shinto religion. Customs and practices are different between the two, and these places of worship can be found in all parts of Japan from the largest cities to the smallest village. There are an estimated 80,000+ Shinto shrines in Japan [1] and the common picture that comes to mind is that of a traditional well preserved building that has graced the area for a long time. That picture is true for most shrines in Japan, but not for the Akagi Jinja (赤城神社). The Akagi Jinja has been in the Kagurazaka neighborhood in Tokyo since the 1500's [2], but the traditional buildings on the shrine grounds were replaced with a modern architectural interpretation in 2010 by noted Japanese architect Kuma Kengo. He also designed the condominiums adjacent to the shrine, which has a café open to the public on the first floor. Having condominiums with a café on shrine grounds is highly unusual in Japan. This modern interpretation of a Japanese shrine is unique and worth a visit when you're in Tokyo. The shrine is an easy two minute walk from Kagurazaka Station on the Tokyo Metro Tozai Line.
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| Akagi Shrine Main Hall next to the Park Court Kagurazaka Condominiums |
Kuma Kengo is a resident of Kagurazaka, so his design was to benefit the neighborhood. As with all redesigns, paying for the renovation was a challenge. The solution was to lease the land adjacent to the shrine for condominiums. After the lease expires in 70 years, control of the land reverts back to the shrine. In the meantime, the proceeds from the lease help with the operations of the shrine [2]. Even though the condominiums are adjacent to the main shrine building, they in no way intrude upon the shrine itself. This is probably also the only shrine to have a café (Italian food, no less!) on shrine grounds.
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| The Akagi Shrine buildings are built above a parking garage |
As you can imagine, the design is a mix of the traditional with the modern. The approach to the shrine is like all other shrines in Japan: there's a traditional Torii Gate marking the entrance and the approach to the shrine. However once you reach the shrine, you realize that this is not a traditional shrine. Not only are there condominiums and a café on the shrine grounds, but the shrine buildings and grounds are constructed above a parking garage that serves both the shrine visitors and condominium residents.
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| Traditional shrine architecture together with modern design |
The design of the main hall has a very non-traditional architecture. While there are recognizable traditional shrine elements (such as the roof), it's the use of modern materials for the main hall make the shrine unique. Most shrine main halls are enclosed by solid walls without any windows, or if there are windows (usually just openings in the walls), the windows are covered so that it is impossible to observe activity in the building. The Akagi Shrine redesign is just the opposite, since the main hall is surrounded by very modern floor-to-ceiling windows and there are no walls, either in the interior or exterior to obscure viewing.
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| The Main Shrine Hall is surrounded by floor-to-ceiling glass windows |
I saw an interview with Kuma Kengo on the design of the Akagi Shrine online on NHK (the public broadcasting network in Japan). He stated that the design was inspired by the origins of Shinto worship, where rituals and prayers were performed in open clearings, devoid of any walls. He wanted to bring the roots of Shinto worship back to the design of the Akagi Shrine Main Hall using modern construction and materials. He accomplished that goal and uniquely created the other buildings on the shrine grounds that mix the traditional with the modern. This is the only shrine I've ever visited where there are QR codes that you can scan with your mobile phone to get more information!
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| Akagi Shrine Main Worship Hall interior |
Akagi Jinja (赤城神社) Information and Access
Name:
- Akagi Jinja
- 赤城神社
Address:
- 1-10 Akagi Motomachi, Shinjuku City, Tōkyō-to 162-0817, Japan
- 〒162-0817 東京都新宿区赤城元町１−10
Access:
- Take the Tokyo Metro Tozai Line to Kagurazaka Station (T05).
- Take Exit 1 and walk approximately 2 minutes to the Akagi Shrine.
- Admission to the shrine and grounds is free, and is open 24 hours a day.
Websites:
- The official Akagi Shrine website (Japanese):
- Plan your subway trip using Hyperdia:
- Tokyo subway trips are not covered by the JR Pass.
- NHK TV World English website:
Map:
References
[1] Wikipedia. "Shinto shrine". Last updated: 11 May 2019. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shinto_shrine.
[2] InterAction Green. "Kengo Kuma and Kagurazaka". Last accessed: 15 May 2019. http://www.interactiongreen.com/kengo-kuma-kagurazaka/.
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