This article was updated on 20 Sep 2021 to correct rail pass information.
Soba (そば or 蕎麦) is the Japanese name for buckwheat and usually refers to thin noodles made from buckwheat flour. They contrast to thick wheat noodles, called udon (うどん). Soba noodles are served either chilled with a dipping sauce, or in hot broth as a noodle soup. The tradition of eating soba originates from the Tokugawa period, also called the Edo period, from 1603 to 1868. In the Tokugawa era, every neighborhood had one or two soba establishments, which functioned much like modern cafes where locals would stop for a casual meal [1].
Soba restaurants are still common in Japan to this day, functioning much as they did in the Edo period. So if soba restaurants are so common and casual in today's Japan, why did I make a special trip to eat here on 04 Nov 2019?
Please continue to read the rest of the article to find out why and to see more photographs.
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| Honke Owariya (本家尾張屋 本店) Entrance and Queue |
I first read about the soba restaurant, Honke Owariya (本家尾張屋 本店, Honkeowariya honten), in Kyoto, Japan from an article in Live Japan (an online Japan travel promotion website):
The main branch of the restaurant is in a two-story Kyoto-style townhouse built in the early Meiji period (1868-1912) [2] and is only a few minutes walk from the Kyoto City Subway's Karasuma-Oike Station. While the main branch of the restaurant building dates from early Meiji period, the restaurant itself has been in existence much longer, and that's the real reason to eat soba at this restaurant and at this location.
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| Honke Owariya (本家尾張屋 本店) Entrance Garden |
Ariko Inaoka is the 16th owner of Honke Owariya - read that as the 16th generation owner of the restaurant. She took over from her grandfather (14th generation) and her father (15th generation) by herself in 2014. The restaurant itself was founded in 1465 as a confectionery shop [2] and still sells them on the first floor. So the restaurant is over 550 years old and is said to be one of the oldest restaurants in Kyoto [2]. How many opportunities do you get to eat at a 550+ year old restaurant? So eating soba here is a unique opportunity that cannot be replicated at another (much younger) soba restaurant.
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| Honke Owariya (本家尾張屋 本店) Second Floor Dining Room |
I arrived at the restaurant just before opening time of 11:00 and there already was a line of people wanting to eat soba out the entrance. In general, I do not like to wait in line to eat at a restaurant, but in this case I happily queued with everyone else to wait for a seat. Thankfully the wait was only around 30 minutes before I was seated on their second floor and ordered their specialty, Hourai Soba (宝来そば) for ¥2530.
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| Hourai Soba (宝来そば), Honke Owariya's (本家尾張屋 本店) Signature Dish |
In the old days, goldsmiths are said to have used buckwheat flour to gather up scattered gold leaf. That is why soba has been associated with luck in money and wealth since ancient times. Since people used to eat soba to bring them luck, the 14th owner of the restaurant created this dish which he called “Hourai Soba”. The soba is made from buckwheat grown by contract farmers in Otoineppu in northern Hokkaido and Kyoto groundwater, pumped from a well 50m below ground [2].
Hourai Soba (宝来そば) is Honke Owariya's signature dish. It includes five stacked trays of soba, served cold alongside a soy-based soup base and a variety of condiments including shrimp tempura, shiitake mushrooms, shredded omelet, dried seaweed, sesame seeds, wasabi, leek and grated daikon. Each tray is meant to be eaten individually, with a helping of soup base and condiments. You can eat whatever topping you prefer with each tray. The set is finished with salted cherry blossom hot water, traditionally served after a meal of soba [3]. Thankfully, the dish comes with instructions on how to eat it.
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| Hourai Soba (宝来そば) Eating Instructions |
As I looked around the dining room, the other popular dish ordered was Tempura Soba (天ぷらそば) which is served hot for ¥1925. I was also tempted to order the hot or cold Duck Soba (鴨そば, Kamo Soba) for ¥1980, which is available seasonally, but decided to order their specialty dish instead. Prices are accurate as of the published date of this article and are subject to change. There is an English menu. There are many more dishes, desserts, and confectioneries, some being unique dishes, created and only available here (with the confectionery store on the first floor).
You could look at this restaurant as just another soba (and confectionery) restaurant in Japan and could eat at one of their other branches in a more modern setting (building). I think it is worth a special trip to the main branch restaurant in this almost 150 year old historic building for the experience of eating at a restaurant that's 550+ years old. So if you plan to visit Kyoto, I would urge you to consider eating soba here.
Honke Owariya Main Store (本家尾張屋 本店) Information and Access
Name:
- Honke Owariya
- 本家尾張屋 本店
Address:
- 322 Niomontsukinukecho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-0841, Japan
- 〒604-0841 京都府京都市中京区仁王門突抜町322
Access:
- There are numerous Kyoto 1- and 2-day bus and/or subway passes for travel only in Kyoto, and Kansai area multi-day passes for private rail, subway, and bus lines (i.e. non-JR modes of transportation) for travel in Kyoto and in the region surrounding the city. Depending upon you itinerary, these passes can make financial sense and make a good addition to a Japan Rail (JR) Pass, especially in Kyoto where most sights are accessed by local subway and buses, and not by Japan Rail.
- Japan Rail Pass (7-, 14-, 21-day):
- Valid for travel throughout Japan on Japan Rail (with some exceptions).
- Purchase outside of Japan. Must show passport and have a short-term (90 day) visitor's stamp to redeem at selected airports and rail stations. (This is changing)
- Once activated, must be used on consecutive days (i.e. cannot skip days).
- Website:
- Kyoto City Bus and/or Subway Pass (1-, 2-day)
- For bus and subway travel in Kyoto.
- Available to everyone for purchase.
- Activated at time of purchase and the 2-day pass must be used on consecutive days.
- 1-day Pass: ¥900
- 2-day Pass: ¥1700
- Website:
- Kansai Thru Pass (2-, 3-day)
- Note: This is different than the Kansai Area Pass issued by JR West, which is redundant if you already have a JR Pass.
- For travel on the private line trains (i.e. not Japan Rail), subways, and buses in the Kansai region (Osaka, Hyogo, Kyoto, Nara, Wakayama, and Shiga).
- Must show passport and have a short-term (90 day) visitor's stamp to purchase.
- Activated at time of purchase and can be used on non-consecutive days (e.g. Mon, Wed, and Fri for a 3-day pass).
- 2-day Pass: ¥4480
- 3-day Pass: ¥5600
- Website:
- The Kyoto and Kansai passes can be purchased at the Bus Information Center in front of Kyoto Station and next to the Kyoto Station Bus Station.
- Plan your rail/subway trip using Hyperdia:
- From Kyoto Station, take the Kyoto City Subway Karasuma Line to Karasuma-Oike station (3 stops, 5 min., ¥220).
- The JR Pass is not valid for use on the Kyoto City subway, but the Kyoto Bus/Subway and Kansai Thru Passes are. Otherwise the fare can be paid by cash or by Electronic Money IC card (even from other regions of Japan (e.g. JR East Suica from Tokyo)).
- Stops are announced in both Japanese and English.
- From Karasuma-Oike Station, take Exit 1 and walk 5 minutes to the restaurant.
- Information and prices are accurate as of the published date of this article and are subject to change.
Hours:
- 11:00-19:00 (last order 18:00).
- Confectionery store open from 9:00.
- Closed 1-2 Jan.
- Information is accurate as of the published date of this article and is subject to change.
Websites:
- Honke Owariya's (本家尾張屋 本店) English website:
- Plan your rail/subway trip using Hyperdia:
- Japan Rail Pass (7-, 14-, 21-day):
- Kyoto City Bus and/or Subway Pass (1-, 2-day):
- Kansai Thru Pass (2-, 3-day):
Map:
References
[1] Wikipedia. "Soba". Last modified: 14 Nov 2019. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soba.
[2] Live Japan. "Honke Owariya: Delicious soba restaurant founded 550 years ago and still going strong!". Last modified: 9 Aug 2019. https://livejapan.com/en/in-kansai/in-pref-kyoto/in-kyoto-suburbs/article-a2000017/.
[3] flickr. "Kyōto - Nakagyō: Honke Owariya - Hourai Soba". Last modified 18 May 2011. https://www.flickr.com/photos/wallyg/5841620255.
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